Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Living in Ecuador - What's our budget?

The one question we get asked a lot is "How much does it cost to live there?" Needless to say, this can vary drastically from person to person based upon lifestyle choices. These are just OUR numbers and will change as we live here longer. Unlike most others, we still have US based expenses since we own property there and plan to eventually move back. Property taxes, memberships, scuba insurance and our timeshare, for example. These numbers are NOT included below.

The original budget we developed after our visit here in April-May 2013 was based upon what we saw and heard during our visit as well as what we had read from fellow bloggers living in the same area, Cuenca.

Rent600
Utilities100
Cell/Internet/TV150
Food300
Entertainment200
Transportation100
Medical/Insurance100
US Trip200

1750

Our current budget has been amended to reflect some actual costs and some costs are still projected.

Rent400
Utilities50
Cell/Internet/TV100
Food300
Entertainment150
Transportation75
Medical/Insurance100
Housekeeper50
US Trip200

1425

We originally planned to rent furnished but fell in love with our current unfurnished place so our initial "get settled" costs rose with the cost of furniture and appliances. The bedding and decorations would have been bought in either case.

Our utility estimate is still an estimate but is based upon what our downstairs neighbor is paying for water, electric and propane. Our first tank of propane, used for cooking and hot water, lasted us three weeks and three days. The gas man comes and swaps the empty tank for a full one, all for the cost of $2.50 a tank.

Our cell phone is still pre-paid and we use very little, a couple of dollars a month IF we call outside other Claro (our cell provider) users. The $10 I put on during our first visit still had $4 on it when I recently added another $10. Currently we have free Internet provided by our landlord but it's at a slower speed than we need to get good TV reception and we share it with our downstairs neighbor. We are working on getting our own line installed and then will pay about $60 a month for a higher speed line. The additional costs will come from subscriptions to our VPN provider - Strong VPN, NetFlix and possibly Hulu.

Food is one thing we really don't have a handle on yet so that is still a projected cost. We are still stocking basics like condiments, spices and cleaning supplies. We're hoping February will give us a more accurate number. Finding a little storefront mercado five minutes from home was this week's bonus. Great fruits and veggies there at a lower price will be much better than the supermarket.

Entertainment includes eating out, tours, movies and the like. Transportation has dropped and will continue as we use buses more and taxis less. We are also walking more. We got our bus passes and since I am over 65, my rides are 12.5 cents, Stu's are 25 cents. Still a bargain! Medical and insurance is still a guesstimate as we evaluate various insurance plans. We also haven't bought any prescription medications yet so we anticipate this amount may rise.

We had no real plans to hire a housekeeper but when we ran into one of the maids from Apartmentos Otorongo as she was working at a house a block away (for some other expats), we quickly arranged for her to come and clean for us. She comes every other week and I no longer have to worry about cleaning bathrooms! <insert big grin> She does a lot more (dusting, mopping, cleaning all the nooks and crannies) and is worth every penny. We might have found someone cheaper but this is someone we know and trust implicitly.

Our US trip number is for our annual trip back to the US to see family. I'm pretty sure it won't cover everything but it's a good start. Our first trip will be next August-October and we will see what the numbers really are when that time comes. Airfare, transportation to Guayaquil and back to Cuenca, rental car in Florida, gas to our property in Tennessee and fuel to take the RV to Maryland and back. Food would be bought regardless. Time will tell...

I will take an annual look at this budget here on the blog, maybe more often, not sure. I hope this helps others build their budgets based upon their lifestyle. If you eat out a lot, like to entertain, enjoy gourmet meals and hard liquor or fine wines, then your costs will definitely be higher.


Monday, February 10, 2014

Getting our Visas and Cedulas

One of the most difficult things that needs to be done if you plan to settle in Ecuador is getting a resident Visa. There are several types of Visas that can be applied for: pensioners, professional and investment are the three main choices. We both have pensioners Visas which require documenting an $800 a month minimum income FOR LIFE and $100 per dependent. (Note, we did not go the dependent route since if something happened to the person holding the Visa, the dependent would have to start the whole process over again.)

You can visit for up to 90 days on your US passport and once here you can apply for an extension. Most people do that and apply for their Visa while in Ecuador. More recently people are getting their Visas while still in the US and then just have to get it registered in Ecuador. This is the route we took even though it is more costly.

Why? Two reasons. One - we wanted to know we had everything we needed while we were in the US. What was needed? Original certified copies of birth certificates, marriage licenses (and for me subsequent divorces/death certificates to show my name change trail), income statement from Social Security and criminal background check. Some items had limits on how old they could be (from issue date). Some had to be notarized, most had to have an apostille done by the Secretary of State where they originated.

All the above is more easily secured while in the US. Getting this done while out of the country is MUCH more costly than while in the US and also requires a family member or friend's assistance. Once this is all completed, all documents must be translated into Spanish and then the translated document must be apostilled.

Confused yet? Well, you hit on our number two reason. Removal of stress from the process. I could have done all of the initial, up to the translation step. I could had IF we hadn't already planned to be on our two month motorcycle trip in Sept-Oct 2013. There was no way I could be sending, receiving and handling all the paperwork during that time.

So what to do? We opted to pay more for a turn-key service and hired Maite Duran of Gringo Visas to do it all. We obtained all the original documents, made copies of our passports, got passport photos and sent it all (plus the paperwork required by Gringo Visas ) to the Connecticut office. This was in early August. We gave it no more thought until we got an email from Maite that our Visa stamps were ready to pick up in the Atlanta Ecuadorian Consulate. Stress GONE!

In mid-November we planned a visit to family in Atlanta and made a visit to the consulate where $700 (for Visa fees to the government) and two hours presented us with the necessary stamps in our passports.

Could it have been done for less cost? Absolutely, especially if 1) I had only been married once, 2) we had gotten all the notarizations/apostilles ourselves or 3) one of us had been fluent in Spanish (a huge plus if you are getting your Visas in Ecuador. But the removal of stress from the process was critical to me personally. The move itself is stress enough. And after sitting in the Immigration Office in Cuenca and listening to folks with no Spanish trying to get through the process - well, we made the right choice for us.

So, we arrived in Ecuador with our newly stamped passports, presented ourselves to Immigration at the airport and our arrival was recorded. For the next two years we are allowed no more than 90 days out of country starting on December 12th each year - our arrival date. This shouldn't be an issue, we hope not since there are NO exceptions, not even for medical emergencies or family deaths.

Once in the country, the next step was to get our resident Visas registered with Ecuador. This can only be done IN country. We went to the Cuenca office of Gringo Visas and met our local contact, Carlos, an amazing young man who is one step away from being a lawyer (and that should happen this year) who is also bi-lingual. He prepared all the paperwork we needed for the next steps, accompanied us to get things notarized and advised us what to do and where to go.

We had been told to arrive at the Immigration Office early on December 26th (the date on our paperwork), get a number and wait our turn. We chatted with others from the US and compared notes while we waited. After arriving before 8:00, we got inside at 8:30 and the process actually started at 9:00 when the times were announced for each person. Our time was 10:30 but we ended up getting called about 9:45. The lady spoke decent English although her accent was strong. She took our paperwork and we were told to sit back down. About 10:15 our name was called again. There was a problem.

Fortunately it was a small problem. When one form was filled out at Gringo Visas, two letters were transposed in our email addresses. No changes are allowed on the forms so I was given a blank and redid them by hand. Well, in one section the print was VERY small, so small I had to get our my little magnifying card to read what was there. Needless to say, I had copied it wrong. Another copy of the form was needed. But since I had already been given my one re-do copy, we had to go next door and get our own copy of the form made.

That done, we then had to get another folder since EACH set of paperwork needed it own manilla folder. Preferably one with the paper clamp in the middle. Oh yeah, the little copy/office shop next door sold them. I think by this point we had spent another fifty cents? LOL!

Paperwork done again, we were asked to sit - again. Another hour or so and we heard our names, got up and received our now registered and officially stamped passports! We were then told we would need copies of all three pages for the next step, getting paperwork into the system for our Cedulas (like a national ID card used for EVERYTHING here). We walked out the door, turned left and went up the steps to the copy/office shop and got copies made. (We have since learned that the next step can often be done the same day if you arrive early enough AND everything goes well. Since we were there during the holidays, they were on limited staff and we were told to come back on January 2nd.)

January second arrives and since we were told we could come in anytime, we arrived around 10:30. We showed the guard our paperwork and told him, "Cedula, por favor." He gave us a number and pointed to the opposite side of the room from where we had sat a week earlier. The chairs were full so we stood until we could get a seat. Around noon they were still on number five and we were number fourteen so we did what others were doing, walked down the street to get lunch.

As we walked back we passed the gentleman who was number eleven so we knew we were still okay. We grabbed our seats and waited, and waited, and waited. In the morning we heard rumors they were having trouble with the cashier (each person pays $4 for this step). Several times we saw a supervisor come out to the lobby computer, attach a keyboard, type something and then leave. At 3:30 we were two numbers away from being called - and the supervisor came out and announced that the main system in Quito had crashed. We were all told to come back the next day.

We didn't since we had an appointment with our landlord. Plus, I was concerned that the computer might have problems again. So we waited until the following Tuesday. This time we arrived earlier, before the office opened. We got our number, stood until we could sit, listened to all the rumblings around us and learned that sure enough, the computer had crashed a second time. But this time everything was with us, we were ushered into the office, paperwork entered into the computer, paid our $4 and on our way with another piece of paper by 11:00.

Were we done? Of course not! This paper had to be notarized before it could be presented at the Registro Civil office where we would get our Cedula. Once again, Carlos accompanied us to the appropriate notary spot (different from the first one and MUCH busier but still costing around $5). We spent most of the morning waiting and were extremely thankful for a good translator.

Now were we ready to go to the Registro Civil office? Of course not, it was too late in the day and we wouldn't make it through the lines. So we arranged to meet Carlos there the following week, bringing all our paperwork once again.

When we arrived at the designated time, we didn't see Carlos so we got in line. When he arrived he pulled us out of the line since it wasn't the one we needed. He took us inside, got our paperwork and original passports and waited his turn. Our job was to sit and wait patiently. In an hour or so he made it to the desk, presented our paperwork...and waited. He came to collect a few dollars from us, presented the receipt to the desk...and we waited.

Soon he was back with a number ticket...for Stu. It appeared my paperwork had a glitch. When they scanned the originals at the Immigration office, my factura (invoice/receipt) had stuck to my original form and was scanned that way. Carlos had the original paperwork and felt it shouldn't have been a problem. While Stu waited for his number to be called, Carlos used my phone to call the Ministry office. After a couple of minutes of earnest conversation, he returned and told me it should be fixed by the time Stu got done with getting his Cedula.

Stu's number was called and he went into the cubicle, answered a couple of questions, got fingerprinted, took out his earring and got his photo taken. Done, all he had to do was sit until his name was called. That took about thirty minutes and he was done, the proud recipient of his official Cedula ID card.

Now we waited...and waited...and waited. While we felt the official was stalling to punish Carlos for going over his head, eventually he called him back to the desk. It was all good and soon I was sitting in a cubicle trying to answer questions and calling on Carlos to translate. Another thirty minutes and I was the proud recipient of my own official Cedula ID card - mine showing I was over 65 and entitled to the same benefits as full Ecuadorian citizens over that age: reduced bus pass cost, 50% off airline tickets originating in Ecuador, go to the head of bank lines, take the short line for Immigration at the airport and get up to $150 a month reimbursed from taxes spent/IVA of 12% on most purchases.

The first tip I would pass along - if you don't speak fluent Spanish, hire a translator/facilitator to assist you at the offices. Well worth the money.

The second tip - come prepared to wait, bring a book or a tablet/e-reader. Third tip - arrive early no matter what anyone tells you, even the staff at the office. For immigration, 7:30 and for your Cedula, 8:30 works.

And final tip - be pleasant no matter how frustrated you are. The staff has to deal with hundreds of people a week, paperwork from all countries and in all state of preparation, with people that don't speak the local language and they can get frustrated themselves. Smile, thank them for helping you, compliment their English or anything else you'd like. Just BE POSITIVE!

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Apartment Work Day

We had originally planned to travel into El Centro yesterday to get a few errands done but our friend, Emilio, called in the morning and was available to come out and help Stu install the wire we need for our Etapa Internet line. Our landlord pays for a basic line that we share with our downstairs neighbor. We want to pay for a higher speed line and not bog her down when we are using the Internet intensively (like watching TV). We also need a higher speed to be able to subscribe to services like Hulu and Netflix if we want a good watching experience. While we enjoy our Amazon Prime now, we'd like to see current series from the US, too.

The gentlemen from Etapa, the local Internet provider, came out a couple days ago and showed Stu where their line terminates, two houses down. It's our responsibility to get the wire from there to our termination point inside the house.

Fortunately Emilio is very experienced in construction as well as being our driver and facilitator/translator. He and Stu quickly opened up the little manholes, ran a metal wire through and then pulled our new wire back through. They then ran it up the building to a hidden corner of our living room and over to behind the television.

Etapa is scheduled to arrive next Tuesday to finish the install. We shall see, even in the US those days seem to undulate like an over full bowl of Jell-o. When they are done, then we will have the local specialist come out and configure the router we brought with us, designed to work specifically with Strong VPN services.

Here are some photos from the work today.


Once done with that, he and Stu hung our two big wall hanging rugs in the hallway. We couldn't have done it without him! I can already notice a difference in the echoing there!


Emilio has become so much more than just a driver since we met him in Guayaquil last December. We feel privileged to call him friend!

Friday, February 7, 2014

Feet back on the ground!

Thanks to Stu's wonderful care, I was back on my feet by Wednesday. I had a small outing, attending a weekly ladies lunch at Popacuchu Cafe about a mile up the road from us. We had met the owners while out walking shortly before my fall and I was happy to have an excuse to try them out.

The lunch was great, I met many new lady friends and had a wonderful meal. Since Popacuchu Cafe is located beside the office for the Hearts of Gold Foundation, I brought the dozen copies of "What Do I Count" (my children's rhyming book) to donate as well as my personal donation of the proceeds of all the sales to date for the book.

After the luncheon I took a taxi to Supermaxi for groceries and ran into the nicest couple, Mike and Lessie from North Carolina. They are retired teachers and he also writes mysteries. Stu and I both look forward to meeting up with them in the future.

Yesterday we took a taxi into El Centro with the intention of getting our new Banco Pichincha ATM/debit cards. My fall had delayed us in picking them up but alas, we forgot to bring out ORIGINAL Cedulas and have to return another day. Oh well, the weather was gorgeous and we headed into the historic downtown.

First stop was Cafe de Ñucallacta where we wanted to pick up more coffee beans. This shop was just getting established when we were here last May and the reviews have been amazing. While there we ran into good friends Bo and Linda. They were chatting with some blog followers, Frank and Sonia.


They all had to leave and we proceeded to get our coffee beans before heading off to get the copies of our Cedulas laminated to carry with us all the time. It is rare we will need the originals and it is a bit of a pain to replace them, so copies 'r us!

More walking and a great lunch at a new place, Santorino's. They advertised a wide variety of lunch specials but we both ended up ordering off the menu. I got a meatball sub that was delicious!! And it came with veggies...great for $4.50. Stu ordered a breaded chicken Parmesan sandwich and he said it was very good, too. He got veggies as well. We will definitely go back.


We meandered towards the other end of El Centro, keeping an eye out for a place to get copies of keys made and ended up at San Sebas for a cup of coffee before heading home. Lo and behold but who do we run into but Frank and Sonia from this morning. Another 30 minutes of chatter...great folks!

All in all a great day!

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Self-assessment: Considering retiring in another country?

This is a guest post written by WC Carpenter and shared in a the Facebook Ecuador Expats group.

I've realized many of the Expats around the world and in Ecuador may be failing to do some difficult self assessment before moving off to a new country and culture.

One of THE Most Important tasks every potential future expat must do is a really hard-nosed, honest,eyes wide open assessment of what is truly important to them before they make that move. My suggestion is to make an actual list with three columns: Necessary...Nice....Not important. :Under those three headings you write the everyday things that you use, want, need, or can do without. This includes (but is not limited to) such things food, wine, books, pets, garbage disposals, cleanliness, or whatever it is that is important to YOU. But you must be very HONEST with your self about which column they go in.

Now if you are accustomed to a glass of nice wine with dinner every night, or you need great books or a garbage disposal it matters not....but do some hard, honest re-assessing of what makes your life a PLEASURE as well as just comfortable. It is no use to retire to a place like Ecuador or Thailand or Tanzania for that matter unless you are going to be happy.

What ever you do...and this is very important...don't let the politically correct opinions of those on mob sites like FB and others deter you from what you know is best for you. Pay no attention to the naysayers, and the Nattering Nabobs of Negativity (thanks Spiro Agnew) who would have you believe that the only right way to live in (insert country here) is to live as they do. Forget them. Do what YOU need to do to make YOU happy in your new home.

Now before some of you jump to conclusions let me hasten to add: That your happiness and your transition will be made easier if you have at least a minimal grounding in the language and have educated yourself about your new home. Visit for as long as you can...but READ everything you can...and not just the things you agree with, especially the History. Read as much Anthropology about the area as you can get your hands on. Educate yourself.

And Yes Happiness is not determined by “things”. But be careful how much you give up all at one time. It is better to come with more and discard along the way as you become more accustomed to your new country than it is to be unhappy because you don’t have something important to you and cant get it. As time goes on and you live in a new country for a few years your perspectives will change your needs and wants will slowly adjust themselves to your new reality....happiness and comfort ARE important.

As for other expats affecting your life and happiness: There are good and bad, happy and unhappy expats everywhere. You must have a strong enough personality to stand on your own, know whats right for you and ignore or laugh off those that irritate you...If you don’t have that kind of personality or self esteem, it could be that moving abroad is not for you.

 ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

Here are two other articles worth reading as you think about retiring to another country.

Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Books to research living in Ecuador

Many folks have asked us why we chose Ecuador and more specifically, Cuenca. We've written about our reasons before but the top reasons are:
  1. Cost of living - Quality of Life
    The cost of living might be comparable to a few more rural spots in southern US but we have the advantage of being in a location with a wealth of history, free symphony concerts, free or almost free museums, and a wide variety of new experiences.

    We can enjoy a good standard of living here that will allow us to save significantly, allowing us to return to the US in 5-6 years with enough saved to be mortgage free when we build our log cabin (or close to mortgage free).

    In the meantime we get to experience a whole new culture in a new country on a new continent. Our grand adventure!
     
  2. Medical Care
    The medical facilities in Cuenca are very good and compared to the US, very inexpensive. We have yet to research insurance but will soon. For comparison, the son of a friend recently had emergency appendectomy surgery. Due to an infection from the burst appendix, he was in three days instead of two. Total cost: $3000.

    Most medication is low cost without a local doctor's prescription, some require a written Rx often obtainable for an office visit of under $25. One hospital offers free visits and written Rx. It varies across the city.

    We have seen recommendations for many specialties including endocrinology, dermatology, cardiology, retinal specialist and more.
     
  3. Weather
    This is weather we can live with and enjoy. It's rarely into the 80's although being at this altitude (over 8000 ft), when in the sun it can feel warmer than the actual air temperature. It's also rarely below the 50's at night. Now, in the winter months (summer in the US), it has on occasion dropped into the upper 30's but that is rare; in the summer months (winter in the US) it has been known to be in the 80's but again, rare.

    The humidity is low unless we are in the rainy season. We haven't had much rain since we arrived in mid-December, less than we experienced last April-May when we first visited. But we know it will come. The winter months tend to feel cooler because of more rain and less sun but we know to dress in layers and we also lucked into an apartment that has morning sun in the living room and afternoon sun in the bedroom. That helps warm the apartment along with the skylight that keeps it brighter inside.
Those are our three main reasons but they may not be your top reasons for selecting a retirement area. For some our city, Cuenca, is too cool or too high. There are other places in Ecuador that might suit. Some love the coastal areas with their more laid back lifestyle and warmer weather. We will visit but it's too hot and humid much of the year, at least for us.

Here are some book recommendations from Amazon that will give you varying views and opinions of living/retiring in Ecuador. Some of blogs turned into books. Some document their vacation trip here. Others do an excellent job of showing the good AND the bad of the country. But they are all worthwhile reads.


In order of usefulness FOR US: [Note - the first four are actually tied for first place]:
Living and Retiring in Cuenca: 101 Questions Answered
Expats in Ecuador: Life In Cuenca
Becoming an Expat in Cuenca, Ecuador
Why Ecuador? [free pdf file]
Our Ecuador Retirement...The First 8 Months **On sale for $.99 on Feb 6-8, 2014
Why Ecuador for me
ECUADOR 2013 - RETIREMENT FACT FINDING TOUR
Please feel free to post your questions in the comments and we will do our best to answer you!

Monday, February 3, 2014

Cuenca Klutz Club and Volcanic Ash


I have a lot to blog about, been taking some photos to share but got sidetracked with a face plant while shopping in my favorite little place, Casa de la Mujer. I took a step forward and missed a step down....that was all it took.

End result? Sore nose, big lump on my forehead that spread into a black eye, a left sprained ankle, a right swollen and bruised knee and general aches and pains in my shoulders. It could have been worse. Stu got me home, made ice slushies for my knee and ankle and used two bandanas for a compression wrap on my ankle.

Now into day three, I think, and doing much better but still keeping the legs elevated. The swelling is almost gone on the knee and ankle but still staying off my feet and keeping them elevated. Hoping by Friday I can get out for some fresh air.


The other news has been the volcanic dust in our area from Saturdays eruption of Tungurahua. We are 210 km (130 miles) away but the winds were just right to send the ash our way. Here is a map that shows Cuenca and the relationship to the volcanoes.


We kept our windows closed yesterday and stayed indoors. This is copied from one of the local newsletters we receive.

Cuenca Gets Volcanic Ashfall
  
For only the second time in memory, Cuenca has been dusted with volcanic ash. It came early Sunday morning from the eruption of the Tungurahua volcano, 210 kilometers to the north. The previous ashfall came during an erpution of the Sangay volcano almost 60 years ago. According to meteorologists, the ash from Tungurahua reached Cuenca due to a variation in the normal pattern of high-altitude winds.
  
The overnight ashfall was enough to force temporary closure of the Cuenca airport and bring out battalions of city street sweepers; the city opted for brooms, concerned that washing away the ash with water could clog city sewers. Cuenca got off easy: In towns and cities near the volcano, such as Ambato and Baños, ash deposits were up to four inches deep.
  
Saturday's explosions at Tungurahua sent an ash plume almost six miles into the atmosphere and aviation authorities said the cloud could shut down air travel for the entire country if it persists, and if winds shift to the west.
  
Although health officials said the Cuenca ashfall did not pose serious health threats, they advised people with respiratory problems to remain indoors and wear masks when they go outside.




It's done, We're done!

Finally, everything has been sold (although some things will be picked up during our last three days here in Cuenca). It's been quite a ...