Next steps.....

The decision is made, the family and friends have been notified and a tentative date has been picked. So what's next? First we have to continue living our daily life here in the US - family and friends to visit, motorcycle trips to be taken as well as trying to continue good eating and exercise patterns.

That said, we know that December will be here before we know it. As in the joke, "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.", we will work slowly through the things that need to be done. Some of that has already started, watching for sales on items we want to bring with us. Since we do plan on coming back in 5-6 years, we don't want to strip all our belongings to take them to Ecuador. Plus, that would be too much weight and too much luggage.

The things we plan to bring, other than the requisite clothing items, are:

• Pots/Pans (good ones are available but quite expensive)
• Coffee grinder and French coffee press
• Single serving size George Foreman grill
• Tableware and kitchen knives
• Sheets and towels
• Electric blanket (maybe only a throw, not sure of size yet)
• Oven thermometer/Hand can opener/Cooking utensils
• Electric teakettle
• Laptops, Kindles, iPhones, iPods, cameras (VERY expensive in EC)
• Reusable shopping bags (used them a LOT during our visit)
• Electric toothbrushes
• Scuba gear

Some of the things we know we can get reasonably are:

• Pillows
• Blankets/Spreads
• Dishes (definitely getting most of those at Artesa at the outlet on Fridays)
• Glasses
• Misc. general kitchen/dinner ware
• Crockpot, toaster, blender & electric frying pan
• Basic office supplies (pens, paper, rubber bands, paper clips, etc)
• Printer (better to get there due to cartridge availability)

Some of the unknowns will depend on space/weight:

• Silicone baking pans (may bring due to light weight and packability)
• Travel iron (small but hefty, will we really need it?)
• Dustbuster (handy but how much will we use it?)
• Portable scanner

We will also be bringing some of the harder to find OTC meds like Benadryl and Tylenol as well as tooth flossers (Stu has one favorite brand), favorite toothpastes and Polident tablets (never found anything like that). Probably toss in a couple of boxes of baking soda, too, since that is regulated similar to Pseudoephedrine here in the US.

Most of the new items have already been purchased, next is to pick up a couple of Sterilite Foot Lockers from Wal-Mart. The come in a set of two for $40 and we know one expat that moved with a LOT of these. We figure these will be great for the heavier, bulkier, oddly shaped items with sheets and towels wrapped around them.

We plan to fly business class on American Airlines combined with our AA credit card, that means 3 free bags each - up to 70# each. We may have to do one more bag for Stu's scuba gear, that takes a bag by itself for the most part.

The other item that needs to get started is receiving the paperwork for our pensioner's visa. We will each apply rather than my being a dependent on Stu's. Next week I will write a letter to the four folks on our short list as facilitator's. Then we will make a decision on who to use.

Phew...I'm tired already! ;-)

PS. As always, feel free to post questions and we'll try to answer them in a new post.

Learning more about Ecuador

When we mention Ecuador we get some interesting observations, like "Do you speak Ecuadorian?" or "Why do you want to go to Africa?" While we smile and change the perception, it makes us realize that many folks might not know much about Ecuador. So here are a few links to quickly acquaint you with a country about the size of Nevada with four distinct climate areas (we will be in the highlands) as well as other informational sites.

• Simple Wiki page
• Full Wiki page 
• US Gov Travel page
• CDC Ecuador page
• Ecuador - a world apart

The Ugly American

Not going to say too much other than the fact that we can easily say NO to all the questions asked in this blog post. Unfortunately, it only takes one really ugly gringo to wipe out twenty good ones if you happen to be the local dealing the the UA. Sigh....

The Ugly American in Ecuador Self Test

Q&A - A few little notes....

As always there are things that I forget to put in the blog that might interest others about this journey to living in Ecuador. Here are a couple that popped into mind after a great night's sleep here in the US after 36+ hours of unbelievable traveling.

• Q: Doesn't tossing used toilet paper into a trash can bother you?
  
  Nope, not at all. But then again, we've been RVers for more than a few years and have done this ourselves to help the waste tanks in our rig perform better. You dispose of it frequently and there is no real odor.
   
• Q: Did you have trouble living at over 8k feet (altitude)?
  
  Not really. We did get an Rx from our doctor here in the US for Diamox (which can have some side effects). We took it two days before and after our arrival. The only side effect either of us experienced was a little tingling in extremities on the last day.
  
  It really helped us survive both the altitude and climbing the mountain of steps that first day. Then we stopped at every landing. By the time we left we were stopping mid-way only. Every day was different. For me, if I was talking while walking uphill, I had to slow or get out of breath. But in general, no major issues (maybe a little insomnia).
   
• Q: Is it true that you can't use any bill higher than a $20?
  
  Pretty much. A twenty is the largest bill bigger places will accept and many won't have change for that. We also got a lot of Sacajawea dollars back in change. Why? Because they outlast paper dollar bills. :) We'll get a couple of rolls to take back with us.
  
  It does seem strange to travel with a pocket of change after years of using a change jar on the counter. It's especially important when out and walking a lot - some public baños (restrooms) - cost a dime. At the mercado (market), it's best to have exact change whenever possible.
   
• Q: Do you have to shop at the open markets? Isn't there a Wal-Mart?
  
  No, you don't have to shop at the open markets. We did a little but know we got gringoed (overcharged) because we weren't fluent enough in Spanish to haggle. There are Wal-Mart type stores such as Coral that carry everything from groceries to baby items to appliances to minor construction equipment to musical instruments to...well, you get the idea. There is also SuperMaxi for groceries and a few household items. We picked up our pillows at our first SuperMaxi trip.
  
  Of course this all applies to Cuenca. Quayaquil and Quito are also large cities and have their own flavor of stores, including department and specialty stores. The coastal towns are smaller and there are many more rural areas where the markets are your only shopping spot.

Got a question? Post it in a comment and we'll try to answer in a future post!

Hoping this doesn't ruin a good thing....

In the last few years there have been several articles written about retiring in Ecuador. International Living is probably the top promoter, then of course there in House Hunters International (where we discovered Ecuador and Cuenca), but most recently there seems to be a wave of new stories almost daily. The most recent was this feature from ABC News set in Cuenca.

While we were there, we didn't attend any Gringo nights. Will we? Maybe. Who knows. Someday we might. LOL! But for now we just worry that all this attention might:

• Cause influx of expats moving to Ecuador without doing their due diligence - it isn't for everyone!
• Said influx could conceivably increase the perception of the Ugly Gringo - because Ecuador isn't the USA
• Correa might decide to make it more difficult to become an expat (in the loose terms since most do not give up their US citizenship) as well as more expensive

Only time will tell....

Cuenca, Ecuador: Preconceptions, Misconceptions and New Viewpoints

As it turns out, many of our preconceptions (based upon reading online and books), turned out to be misconceptions (at least for us). Here are our current feelings about Cuenca, Ecuador.

1. Noise, pollution and traffic
   For us thus far, the noise level has been tolerable. But this is entirely based upon where we are staying. There are many places noisier as well as quieter. The pollution hasn't been an issue unless caught in a trail of black diesel exhaust from a bus. The good news is that they are working on converting to propane powered buses in the next few years. There is also a light rail being built and a percentage of El Centro will become pedestrian malls. Traffic? No worse than any city and surprisingly not as chaotic as we thought it would be.
2. Conservative dress
   I think we were a little mislead on this one. While business professionals wear conservative dress, we also see a lot of casual dress on all ages (locals and expats). Bright colors abound and not just on the indigenous people. The one item we only see on the young are imprinted t-shirts. Surprisingly I've only seen skirts on professional business women and the indigenous women/girls. It is true that you don't see a lot of shorts. The exception are a few (very few) expats, bicyclists (a growing group), University students (of all nationalities) and tourists (yes, we can easily spot most of them). Anyway, for the most part business casual plus jeans is all that is needed.
3. Bad Coffee
   Every thing we read led us to believe that we weren't going to be able to find good coffee here. After trying two restaurants, we came to the conclusion that these folks must like weak coffee because the coffee we had was nice and strong (the way we like it). We haven't had a bad cup yet and recently found out about a shop where we can get the beans ourselves (the grocery store stuff isn't really up to par).
4. Weather
   We both have really enjoyed the weather and the fact that it changes rapidly throughout the day has been fun, surprisingly. I do remember the first few days that were very gray and I wished for a little more sun. Well, I got it...we had five days in a row of sunny days without rain. Lifted my spirits and the rest of our stay has been wonderful.
5. Stray Dogs
   Unfortunately this is an issue but it's a cultural one. Dogs aren't pets as we are used to them being. They are utilitarian if they have owners - they are alarms. We noticed a lot of behavioral differences in the street dogs as compared to our beloved pets in the US. Many owners let their dogs roam so just because they are on the street, doesn't mean they don't have a home. We rarely saw a skinny or sick looking dog but know that they haven't been vaccinated and do carry disease. It's sad to us but it's a way of life here. There are organizations doing rescue and spay but they are privately run and no telling how long they will having the funding needed to continue. There is one other downside - dog poop everywhere. Sigh...
6. Finding our way around
   This was a bigger challenge than anticipated, mainly due to the Spanish names. By week three another expat (thank you, Mike L.) introduced us to citymaps2go. Works on both iPhone and Android and the free version allows the download of two maps. NO internet required once it's downloaded. LOVE IT!
7. Language Barrier
   This, needless to say, has been our biggest issue. We have learned several key phrases and we appreciate every local who has helped us learn more (the maids here at Apartmentos Otorongo, the waiter at Magnolia Caffe and others). Another thank you to Mike L. for introducing us to the app, Jibbigo. Also good for both platforms and doesn't require the Internet. My iPhone has an old OS so I couldn't download either app but Stu put both on his iPhone 4S and they have been a HUGE help. Wish we had them earlier....
8. Safety/Security
   One foreign gentleman said he couldn't stay here and live in a cage. We don't look at it that way but we can see how he interpreted the culture and surroundings. If you think traditional Spanish architecture, the house was built with an inside courtyard and all the rooms looked inward. Whether for safety/security in those days or not, the culture has continued. All buildings are well protected with walls, electric alarms, barbed wire or broken glass at the top of the walls, etc. Dogs are the secondary alarm system. From the exterior a house or apartment building may look less than reliable but inside is a different story. Being built in this fashion not only makes it safer but it provides a barrier against the street noise in many areas. We have grown very accustomed to seeing people reach inside a fence to unlock a padlock, search multiple keys to unlock a heavy door or buzz so the resident can come down to let you in.
9. Graffiti vs Street Murals
   No misconceptions here - graffiti is alive and well in Cuenca. The sad thing is that a lot of the graffiti is painted on top of some very interesting murals. The good thing is that the town has instituted a program to change this. We are hopeful that it will help.
10. Street/Road Condition & Pedestrians (Walking)
    We had seen photos of the sidewalks with metal sticking up, potholes and obstructions so we were prepared. We had been warned that streets might not be up to par and we've seen those as well as dirt roads. We'd been warned that pedestrians are targets and don't have the right of way. We have managed it all, gotten very good at crossing streets (even the ones without crossing lights as well as the ones with traffic coming from multiple directions), haven't fallen, have walked huge stairs (up and down) and still are amazed at the women here who gracefully navigate all this in stiletto heels. Phew! I do have to mention one last thing about walking. There are those times when you run into the smell of stale urine. Regardless of laws, some men/boys just can't wait and use various corners. No worse than a truck stop/rest area in the US though. Hasn't slowed our walking at all - we've been averaging 3-6 hours a day of meandering around El Centro.

What we've come to love about Ecuador...

1. The People
   They are always willing to help, always willing to share a smile, hard workers with a love of live. Of course it's like anywhere else, there is always that ONE...but in general all our experiences have been wonderful. We look forward to learning more conversational Spanish so we can better chat with the locals.
2. The Greenery
   The wonderful climate is responsible for the wealth of growing plants, bushes, trees and crops. There is something blooming all the time and the nighttime smells are amazing. In addition there is the added bonus of the hummingbirds that are much larger than we are used to in the US. That means they fly slower and they actually perch on branches. A great treat to see, even in the darkening light at dusk.
3. The Climate
   While there isn't much change from day to day, you can experience several seasons in one day. It is normally cool in the morning, warming as the sun arises, at some point it usually rains a bit, then it cools again in the evening. Oh, and thanks to the constantly moving clouds, the view is always different. [avg nights are in the 40-50 range, avg days are in the 60-70 range, but at this altitude it always feels warmer in the sun] Homes typically do not have heat or air conditioning as neither is needed most of the time. Some folks have little space heaters for the extra cool am/pm time. Another bonus of the climate and altitude is the lack of flying insects. There are no screens on the windows, you just open and enjoy the fresh air.
4. The Fresh Fruits & Vegetables
   What can we say but OH MY!!! Eating good food, inexpensively, without a lot of additives. How can that not be good.
5. The Lack of Stress
   Regardless of the traffic and city bustle, it's hard to let yourself get stressed here. We both noticed it, the mañana attitude. It will get done, maybe not today, but that's okay!
6. The Little Shops  & Markets
   No matter what you need, there is someplace to get it. We're talking the day to day things, not the big ones like major appliances (you can get them, too, just be prepared to pay - dearly for American or well known brands). The mercados (open markets) are where you can get the best deals on food as well as other goods and there are several. It's so fun to be within walking distance of your daily grocery shopping.
7. The Artisans
   Panama hats, embroidered blouses and shawls, wonderful Alpaca sweaters, handmade sterling silver jewelry, carvings, painting, and so much more!
8. The Family
   It's all about the family and we love that, watching the interactions, how they interrelate and how they take others into their family, la familia.
9. The Country
   Ecuador is a small country, compared to the US, about the size of Nevada. But it is very diverse and we so look forward to traveling to other parts and visiting. The rain forest, the coast, the ruins, the rural towns with artisan specialties. And then there is the rest of South America!

So what are our plans? To return to Ecuador before the end of 2013 and make it our home for the next 5-6 years. Watch for updates as we start the process of telling our family, going through our belongings to determine what comes with us and purchasing a few new things we need to bring.

Feliz día de la madre

First and foremost, Happy Mother's Day! The last several days the streets have been full of additional vendors selling flowers, jewelry and other trinkets. We made reservations at Restaurante Rustico for dinner at 4 pm, knowing all the open restaurants were going to be very busy.

Yesterday we had dinner with new friends, Bo and Linda. They are both excellent cooks and we enjoyed a great evening of laughter and sharing with them and their friends, Olga and Ed. After dinner we took a stroll around El Centro and enjoyed the sights and lights. Even at 9 pm, there were vendors out, ready for last minute purchasers. Linda stopped to talk to her flower lady and all three of us women were given a beautiful red rose to enjoy.

Keeping this short, soon I will post about preconceptions, misconceptions and new viewpoints. Chao!